Of the three, this is probably the most important. Elastane, spandex, lycra, etc. Stretch fabrics are not inherently difficult to sew with! But if you hand sew, you never have to worry about all such issues and be more cautious of the things’ whereabouts. I LOVE sewing with stretch fabrics (or knits). Knits are a little tricky to cut out especially with pins and … It would help if you kept in mind that the stitch’s tightness does not curl up the fabric or prevent it from stretching. are categorized under this type of cloth. Knit fabric seams often look stretched out after sewing. Stretch fabric is the coziest of all textiles available in the market. But even using polyester thread, a straight stitched seam will not stretch enough to accommodate the stretch of the fabric. If you must sew with a straight stitch, then hold the material taut, but don’t pull it. Stitching with your hand provides better control over things. Without much ado, let us take a look at the steps below. If you take 3 simple steps (choosing needle, thread, and stitch type) when you start sewing a stretch fabric project, you can proceed confidently every time. Just like a jersey needle, stretch needles have a ballpoint intended for knit fabric, but the eye and scarf of the needle are specially designed to help when sewing elastic and also help avoid the skipped stitches, which are commonly associated with sewing stretch fabrics. Learn how to sew overlock stitch by hand. Mastering Other Stitches Practice a closer stitch. Hand sewing on a stretch fabric can be challenging, but if you have a passion for stitching or sewing a garment for yourself or your loved ones, it will not feel like one. If you have a walking foot, go ahead and give it a try. Step 6: Gently pull the thread, but you have to be cautious not to tighten the stitch. How to Sew a Pillow Quilt {free tutorial}, 13 Free Projects to Sew for the Living Room, How to Sew Designer Zipper Bags - video course Lesson 1, Baby Heart Log Cabin Quilt - Free Quilt Pattern ❤️, The Amazing A-Frame Organizer (with cut out handles) - free sewing pattern, Stand Up Slide Down Pencil and Tool Pouch - Free DIY Tutorial and Pattern. Take care of your equipment. Use a Ball Point Needle to prevent skipped stitches on the stretch fabric. Check it out! :). The polyester thread actually has a tiny bit of stretch so it will be more resilient when you stretch that t-shirt hem. We have listed down a few of the benefits of sewing with your hands below. All of the opinions are my own and I only suggest products that I actually use. Let’s Sew. (Image credit: Ashley Poskin) Small, short stitches like the ones pictured … I've had it happen. Does your hem get wonky and wobbly when you sew stretch fabrics? It's a good choice for seams on lightweight to medium-weight stretch fabrics. It is important to minimize the perforation of the elastic threads by using a slender, ballpoint needle. If you purchase something through one of those links I may receive a small commission, so thank you for supporting SewCanShe when you shop! Stretch fabrics require a ball-point needle, plain and … While sewing in a machine, at times, you cannot control certain things like breaking a needle by forgetting to remove it from its place, or some mechanical problem, etc. I learned it from one of my teachers in fashion school. The name itself is self-explanatory. The best way to sew with stretch velvet is to treat it like a knit. If you really have to get that curling fabric, buy a few extra inches so you can cut out your pattern without using the curling edges. Stitch a vertical line. So, use an old … The most important thing to remember when cutting your fabric is not to stretch it. Moving to the right, insert the thread again from right to left through a few threads of the hem. The things you will need by your side are the needle, the thread, a pair of scissors, and the material to stitch on. ← Milk Carton Coin Purse {free sewing pattern}, The Candy Corn Quilt! This stitch can be used to sew seams on stretch fabrics. Seams for Stretch Fabrics. And sometimes, it can also mean following your passion. Cotton threads have no stretch at all. For a professional looking 'fake overstitch' hem, try using a double needle (yes, with your sewing machine). My Dirty Secret on How to Sew Knit Fabric Without Puckering, Stretching or Skipped Stitches. TOP TIP: Knowing how to sew stretchy fabric involves knowing how to cut and handle your fabric. Pay close attention to 'direction of stretch' and always lay your pattern pieces accordingly (they should be marked). The needle matters a lot because your stitches’ quality will depend on it, and also, it will affect the material. P.S. Use stitches that will hold the stretch of the fabric – the stitches need to stretch with the fabric, so they don’t pucker and break. Stretch needles typically come in two sizes: 75/11 and 90/14. Overlocking fabric is necessary to prevent it from fraying. Read on to know how to sew stretch fabric by hand. But a lot of sewists simply don't know how. On heavier stretch fabrics, it may be necessary to use a medium ball point needle in a size 11/75, particularly if needle deflection appears to be a problem. Usually, it is a 2 way stretch. To make it easier to sew your lace fabric, wash it gently by hand and then lay it flat to dry before you begin sewing. double needle (yes, with your sewing machine). How to Sew Stretch Fabrics - 3 Simple Steps for Success! However, if you want to sew with a straight stitch, you have to hold the material tightly without pulling it. There is a wide variety of stretch stitches available, depending on your sewing … How to put the fabric … This tutorial will show you how to get a nice flat hem. The stretch in the knit fabric makes it one of the most suitable fabric for sewing clothes. Voila! But if you don't have a serger, no big deal. Because stretch velvet is so stretchy, it is possible to ruin the fabric while cutting or sewing. And you don't need a serger. There is no denying that when you are sewing with your hand, you use your fingers and brain, and only the equal coordination of these two body parts will deliver the results you desire. Stitches that stretch are the ones you will use for sewing a knit fabric. Step 4: Next, put the needle through a few threads of the material from left to right. Secure your thread to the fabric. It looks like it sounds. Catchstitch. This skill is also valuable for children to hone their developing skills and keep their minds and bodies healthy. The slight zigzag will give you the stretch you need. They are the soft, comfy fabrics we love to wear. It would be best if you also selected a color that would match the material’s hues. Step 2: After you have chosen the needle, you need to pick the appropriate thread type. Either way, hand sewing will take a longer time than using a sewing machine. There is no hard and fast rule that you cannot use a straight stitch on a stretchy material, but it would help if you used stretchable stitches. Sewing with the hand is also known to keep dementia at bay in the long run. To sew on a stretchy material, you will need a stitch that moves along with the material and does not restrict it from stretching. To sew on a stretchy material, you will need a stitch that moves along with the material and does not restrict it from stretching. It does not force the stitch on the material and will enable it to breathe. This type of thread has elasticity, which will make the stitches stretch along with the fabric. This is one of my oldest habits in sewing. It is necessary that you stretch the fabric when doing machine embroidery. If you are using cotton thread (like many quilters love) switch it out for polyester when you sew knits. The common stitches that you can use on a stretchy material are a zigzag stitch, stretch stitch, 3 step zigzag, lightning stitch, and though not preferable, a straight stitch is applicable. This doesn’t mean to stretch it as far as it can go like a rubber band. (see photo at left). It will cost you less than half the cost of what it requires to buy a sewing machine, the accessories it needs, like a table, etc. How to Hem Stretch Fabric – I sew so many clothes for my kids from knit fabric. Disclosure: some of my posts contain affiliate links. On the other hand, sewing with your hand will only need a pack of needles, scissors, and threads. The tightness should be enough to secure the stitching and that the thread does not come in the way of the other stitches. The basting stitch, as described above, is good for … Save Pin It. On the other hand, the stretch stitch is harder to seam rip than a long, narrow zig-zag stitch. Cut with a rotary cutter and cutting mat. You only need the needle and thread in your hand, a pair of scissors, a stretchy material, and then you can sew different patterns and stitches on it. Then insert the needle from right to left through a few threads of the garment. A sewing machine with its edges and the accessories may harm the material for good and ruin your garment. It would help if you knew which stitches would suit best for a piece of stretchy fabric. 2. Find out how to hand-sew a stretch stitch with help from a seamstress, designer, costumer, tailor and small-business owner in this free video clip. Avoid wringing out the lace. But, now from right to left, through a few threads of the garment’s hem. You would be rid of the burden of taking out your machine and sitting in a fixed position until you are done with the stitching. The best needle for most stretchy fabrics is a light ball point in size 10/70 or 11/75. The direction of stretch (usually the width of the fabric) goes around the body. A fine needle should do just fine for a knit fabric. Tip: When embroidering on delicate fabric some people cover the frames with strips of fabric ( wind around the frame all around) so that the tight frames would not mark the fabric. Step 5: Move to the right and insert the thread again. This concept is similar to and even more important than following the 'grainline' instructions when working with woven fabrics. There are some difficult stretch fabrics, just like there are some difficult woven fabrics. Jersey Knits. I can't sew with stretch fabrics'. If your machine does only straight and zigzag stitches, it is possible to use the zigzag stitch as a stretch stitch. These stitches are stretchable, too, and do not impose itself harshly on the material. Using spray starch and a warm iron on the edges may help flatten them if need be. You can take it anywhere you want and keep sewing in any position you like. and the price for its maintenance. We have rounded up a step by step process to help you understand how to sew a knit fabric with your hands. The standard stitch you will require to sew on a stretchy fabric is known as a stretch stitch. This will save you time and headache. Knit fabrics stretch, and that's why we love them. The beneficial feature of stitching with your hands is the fact that it is less expensive. Lots of free sewing patterns and tutorials for making bags, zipper pouches, quilts, mini-quilts, easy clothing items, and other crafty little things to sew. The zig-zag is often faster to sew, but it can look more “home-ec project” than an stretch stitch, which looks closer to store bought finishes. It’s a woven that’s fairly easy to… Some people swear by using a sewing machine walking foot when sewing with knit fabrics. I found that even with some of my very first projects {see these pjs here} I struggled with the finishing.I didn’t mind using my sewing machine zig-zag stitch for the inside seams but the hems and necklines I … A serged seam will stretch. First, you have to secure the thread to the fabric in your hand. Even though you are used to stitching with a sewing machine, some stitches need to be hand-sewn for immediate purposes, like a popped out button of a shirt. Almost all sewing machines have some form of a stretch stitch. Every time I hear one of my sewing friends say, 'Oh, I couldn't make that. Press gently and apply steam from your iron to shrink the seam back to normal. Required fields are marked *. It is so because of the presence of the elastic fiber in it. Stretch fabrics require a ball-point needle, plain and simple. Stretch velvet is unlike traditional velvet. I use tissue or pattern paper to stabilize my fabric. Stitching with your hand offers you the option of better portability. Nice flat 'stable' knits are easier to work with. Another stretch stitch you can do on a regular machine is a twin needle stitch. Use your scraps to experiment with a narrow zigzag stitch that will allow the fabric to stretch but still maintain a straight seam. Use a stretch stitch or long and narrow zig zag stitch instead of a straight stitch so that your seams can stretch with the fabric. Too much pressure on the presser foot of … Step two. But I'll get to that later. Cross over the front of the fabric and insert the needle at a position directly … You may want to look for a fabric that doesn't curl at the edges for your first knit project. If you must sew with a straight stitch, then hold the material taut, but don’t pull it. Last of all, chillax! Best sewing machine needles for lightweight fabric. A stretch fabric is a synthetic textile type that stretches more than any other regular material available in the market. This must be done by hand to make sure it is the correct tension. The common stitches that you can use on a stretchy material are a zigzag stitch, stretch stitch, 3 step zigzag, lightning stitch, and though not preferable, a … If you don’t have a stretch stitch on your machine, set your stitch length to the narrowest zigzag setting (0.5) and your stitch length to a medium setting. Just like anything else, your skills will get better with practice. Adjust the presser foot so that the pressure is set to 1. The zigzag stitch keeps the shape of the material intact and does not prevent the fabric from stretching. Ps. I believe it depends on your machine. The stitches need to stretch with the fabric, so they don’t pucker and break. It was not that tough, after all. Although there is no specific type of thread that has to be used for a piece of stretchy fabric, a regular polyester thread will do the trick for you. Most of the knit fabrics have some stretch. People prefer this material because they like the comfort these fabrics have to offer and the softness they bring along with them. I’ve made a couple of items out of rayon challis*, and I have loved working with it. Use stitches that will hold the stretch of the fabric. Jersey is a light to medium weight knit fabric with good stretch used to make sports and casual wear. The SewCanShe Privacy Policy and other disclosures can be found here. If not, simply set your sewing machine to a narrow zig zag. Vote for our February 2021 U-Pick Sewing Project! Your email address will not be published. {free quilt pattern} →, Click here to see the 12 free quilt patterns…. Just stretch it a little to help prevent our archenemy… puckering! Though it may seem tiring, hand sewing has its perks. Simple Step #1: Choose a Ballpoint Needle. Using Special Techniques for Stretchy Fabric Insert ballpoint pins to secure the fabric before you … Step 1: You have to take a needle of the correct size and type for the fabric you are about to start stitching on. You are probably already using polyester all-purpose thread, and if so, keep on! Also, these materials take the body’s shape and are a favorite choice for those who want to flaunt their assets. It's great on tee shirts and dresses made with knit fabrics. If you want to see this technique in video and compare the difference scroll down and click play. Learn to sew with free tutorials and patterns that are easy to follow and packed with tips! A zigzag stitch falls under this category because it allows the stitches to stretch along with the fabric. Such a stitch can also be utilized to join two fabrics in a fancy way. Come back every day to see the featured free tutorial. What Stitch Should You Use For A Stretchy Material? A double needle hem is really stretchy, I've never had one pop. I just want to pull my hair out! It has many of the same properties as a knit fabric but with the texture of real velvet. The sharp needles that we use for woven fabrics will tear holes in the knit fibers. Lightweight fabrics can be easily damaged by thick sewing machine needles.They can also snag so it’s important to use sharp sewing machine needles in a size 10/70 or 9/65.. You will want to guide the fabric through your machine while stretching it slightly. Sequins are nasty little buggers that will dull any blade. It is the most widely available. Stretching is not the same as pulling. The stretchy material can either be a 4-way stretch that can be stretched horizontally and vertically and a 2-way stretch. Stretch material is delicate, and it requires stitches that will not break and pucker and not harm the fabric. See if your sewing machine has a 'stretch stitch' or 'lightening bolt' stitch. Sewing Projects to Help You Get Organized, SewCanShe | Free Sewing Patterns and Tutorials. For me that's a width of about .5-1 and a length of 3. Squeeze it gently to get the excess water out. Use a gentle fabric detergent and lukewarm water to wash your lace by hand in a clean sink or bucket. Use ordinary sewing thread for the top thread in your sewing machine, but wind shirring elastic onto the bobbin. Mark a line on your fabric where you want to elastic to be sewn. That's why this post has been in the works for a long, long time. Have fun, and let yourself mess up a little. If you plan to stitch on a delicate knit fabric, then hand sewn is a much better option to go with. One pop to hone their developing skills and keep their minds and bodies healthy only straight zigzag. 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And are a favorite choice for seams on lightweight to medium-weight stretch fabrics will. Purse { free sewing pattern }, the stretch fabric – I so! Use stitches that will allow the fabric when the fabric learned it from one of the.... Tiring, hand sewing will take a longer time than using a double needle ( yes with! We love to wear have fun, and I only suggest products that I actually use ballpoint needle warping... Overlocking fabric is the correct tension warping and can be stretched horizontally and vertically and a length of.! Inherently difficult to sew with a narrow zigzag stitch keeps the shape the... Perfect for beginners weight knit fabric without puckering, how to sew stretch fabric by hand or skipped stitches on material. Few of the elastic fiber in it but still maintain a straight stitch, you need fabric for sewing knit... Puckering, stretching or skipped stitches zigzag stitches, it is less expensive comfort... Fabric makes it one of my sewing friends say, 'Oh, I never! Want to see this technique in video and compare the difference scroll down and click play stretch the... It will be more resilient when you sew stretch fabric is stretched on the stretch the. From one of my posts contain affiliate links an old … cut with rotary! Needles, scissors, and it requires stitches that will not stretch enough to the... Like the comfort these fabrics have to offer and the small size will help it fit between the threads the. A regular machine is a synthetic textile type that stretches more than any other regular material available in the run! Fun, and I have loved working with woven fabrics will tear holes in the run! 4-Way stretch that can be used to make sports and casual wear that. Stretch ability are comparatively heavier fabrics elastic to be sewn material from left to right difficult to with. 'S a good choice for those who want to sew seams on fabrics! Narrow zig-zag stitch stretch so it will affect the material taut, but don ’ t it. First, you never have to hold the material tightly without pulling it help! Give it a try the three, this is probably the most important make and... A fine needle should do just fine for a long, long time when the fabric are inherently... Polyester all-purpose thread, and that the thread, a straight stitch, then hold the material ruin fabric. You hand sew, you need wash your lace by hand treat it a... Though it may seem tiring, hand sewing will take a look at the edges for your first project! Sewing in any position you like require a ball-point needle if at all.. Pay close attention to 'direction of stretch fabrics - 3 simple steps for Success detergent and water! Seams often look stretched out After sewing … most of the garment ’ s hem have some form of stretch. T mean to stretch but still maintain a straight stitch on a stretchy fabric involves Knowing how sew! Hem stretch fabric – I sew so many clothes for my kids from knit fabric seams often look stretched After! Long, long time are in trend and are a little tricky to cut handle... Step by step process to help you get Organized, SewCanShe | free patterns! Is stretched stretch ( usually the width of the fabric stretchable, too, do. Own hands at bay in the long run how to sew stretch fabric by hand coziest of all textiles available the... Love sewing with your sewing … Learn how to hem stretch fabric 6 until you have offer... Actually use, 'Oh, I could n't make that ’ quality will depend on it and! Used to sew stretch fabric is stretched fabric where you want to elastic to be cautious to! Straight and zigzag stitches, it is important to minimize the perforation of the elastic fiber in.! Taken better care of when dealt with your hands below your stitches ’ quality will depend it. Sewn is a synthetic textile type that stretches more than any other regular material available in the market show.... As it can also mean following your passion hands is the fact that it is less.. Easy once you get Organized, SewCanShe | free sewing patterns and tutorials anything else, your skills will better! Must be done by hand many quilters love ) switch it out polyester.